Pigmentation (hyperpigmentation)

Pigmentation refers to the colouring of the skin. Skin pigmentation disorders such as hyperpigmentation cause changes to the colour of your skin. Types of hyperpigmentation include age spots, melasma, acne scarring and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Hyperpigmentation is caused by an increase in melanin, the natural pigment that gives your skin, hair and eyes their colour. A number of factors can trigger an increase in melanin production, but the main ones are sun exposure, hormonal influences, age and skin injuries or inflammation.

Signs and Symptoms

The main symptoms of hyperpigmentation are darkened areas on the skin. Patches can vary in size and develop anywhere on the body. They most commonly appear on the face, but also on other parts of the body exposed to the sun, such as the forearms and neck.

Causes and Risk Factors

The biggest risk factors for general hyperpigmentation are sun exposure and inflammation (such as acne), as both situations can increase melanin production. The greater your exposure to the sun, the greater your risk of increased skin pigmentation.

Depending on the type of disorder, other risk factors for hyperpigmented patches may include:

• oral contraceptive use or pregnancy
• darker skin type, which is more prone to pigmentation changes
• drugs that increase your sensitivity to the sunlight
• trauma to the skin, such as a wound or superficial burn injury

Treatments

Using a bespoke prescribed plan of medical-grade skincare products (subject to consultation only), Dr Nina might prescribe a range of products containing AHAs, BHAs, L-ascorbic acid, Cysteamine and Retinol.

Chemical peels, dermabrasion, and microdermabrasion are also possible options that may help lighten dark patches.

Medical-grade Skincare Products

These kinds of products are often categorized as a blend between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, providing both aesthetic and medicinal benefits.

Medical-grade skin care products contain active ingredients that have been clinically proven to have a positive effect on skin. They differ from over-the-counter products because they contain ingredients that are capable of penetrating below the top layers of the skin. Products sold over the counter do not affect the skin in biological ways and are unable to penetrate its upper layers.

Medical-grade skin care products should only be purchased from a specialist practice such as Facial Sculpting.

AHAs and BHAs

AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids, i.e. glycolic and lactic acids) and BHA (beta hydroxy acid, i.e. salicylic acid) both work to break the bonds holding dead skin on the surface. Once those bonds are broken, skin naturally sheds to reveal brighter skin almost instantly. Over time, it helps to lighten hyperpigmentation and even skin’s tone.

Salicylic acid is an extremely effective Beta Hydroxy Acid that is used in higher concentrations as a peeling agent for treating acne, scars, melasma, sun damage, and age spots. It can be used in combination with glycolic and lactic acid, the most common types of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids, which are used to exfoliate the outer surface of the skin to target roughness and uneven texture.

L-ascorbic Acid

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is a potent antioxidant compound that has been shown to be particularly beneficial in reducing dark spots. L-ascorbic acid is also an essential cofactor for new collagen production and skin renewal.

Cysteamine

Naturally present in human skin cells, cysteamine regulates melanin synthesis in the skin. Used in topical creams, it effectively removes pigmented brown and dark spots, and produces a uniform and light skin complexion.

Retinol

Retinol is part of a family of derivates from vitamin A called retinoids, commonly found in anti-ageing creams but also recommended in melasma management to improve cellular turnover and reduce the appearance of dark spots.

Retinol is a medium-strength retinoid. Prescription formulas normally contain retinoic acid (the strongest of these retinoids), while retinol is gentler and can be found in medical-grade skincare lines.

Retinol works at both the surface and middle layers of the skin.

• On the skin’s outermost layer, retinol exfoliates to remove dead skin cells, improve tone and texture and lighten dark spots.
• On the skin’s middle layer, retinol is clinically proven to boost collagen and elastin production, which helps improve firmness, tone, and texture of the skin.

These treatments don’t guarantee that pigmentation disorders won’t come back. You might have to return for follow-up visits and stick to certain skin treatment, including minimizing your sun exposure and using a good broad-spectrum SPF to protect your skin from the sunlight.

Please book in for a consultation where we will carefully assess your skin and advise you on the best treatment to manage your pigmentation problems.