Melasma

Melasma is a common skin condition that causes dark, discoloured patches on your skin. Most people get it on their cheeks, bridge of their nose, forehead, chin, and above their upper lip, but it can also appear on other parts of the body exposed to the sun, such as the forearms and neck.

The skin discolouration doesn’t do any physical harm, but people may feel self-conscious about the way it looks.

Although it can affect anyone, melasma is particularly common in women, especially pregnant women and those who are taking oral or patch contraceptives or hormone replacement therapy (HRT) medications.

Causes of Melasma

It isn’t totally clear what causes melasma. Darker-skinned individuals are more at risk than those with fair skin. Sun exposure can cause melasma because ultraviolet rays affect the cells that control pigmentation (melanocytes).

Additionally, estrogen and progesterone sensitivity are also associated with the condition, which means birth control pills, pregnancy, and hormone therapy can all trigger melasma.

Finally, stress, skin irritation and thyroid disease, along with genetic predisposition, are also thought to be causes of melasma.

Treatments for Melasma

For some women, melasma disappears on its own. This typically occurs when the cause is either pregnancy or birth control pills.

But for others, melasma could be a permanent condition or a recurring one. If your melasma is making you self-conscious or is affecting your self-confidence, we encourage you to come in for a consultation. Dr Nina can assess your case and suggest one treatment, or a combination of treatments, depending on the severity of your condition.

Using a bespoke prescribed plan of medical-grade skincare products (subject to consultation only), Dr Nina might prescribe a range of products containing AHAs, BHAs, L-ascorbic acid, Cysteamine and Retinol. Chemical peels, dermabrasion, and microdermabrasion are also possible options that may help lighten dark patches.

Medical-grade Skincare Products

These kinds of products are often categorized as a blend between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, providing both aesthetic and medicinal benefits.

Medical-grade skin care products contain active ingredients that have been clinically proven to have a positive effect on skin. They differ from over-the-counter products because they contain ingredients that are capable of penetrating below the top layers of the skin. Products sold over the counter do not affect the skin in biological ways and are unable to penetrate its upper layers.

Medical-grade skin care products should only be purchased from a specialist practice such as Facial Sculpting.

AHAs and BHAs

AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids, i.e. glycolic and lactic acids) and BHA (beta hydroxy acid, i.e. salicylic acid) both work to break the bonds holding dead skin on the surface. Once those bonds are broken, skin naturally sheds to reveal brighter skin almost instantly. Over time, it helps to lighten hyperpigmentation and even skin’s tone.

Salicylic acid is an extremely effective Beta Hydroxy Acid that is used in higher concentrations as a peeling agent for treating acne, scars, melasma, sun damage, and age spots. It can be used in combination with glycolic and lactic acid, the most common types of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids, which are used to exfoliate the outer surface of the skin to target roughness and uneven texture.

L-ascorbic Acid

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is a potent antioxidant compound that has been shown to be particularly beneficial in reducing dark spots. L-ascorbic acid is also an essential cofactor for new collagen production and skin renewal.

Cysteamine

Naturally present in human skin cells, cysteamine regulates melanin synthesis in the skin. Used in topical creams, it effectively removes pigmented brown and dark spots, promoting a uniform and lighter skin complexion.

Retinol

Retinol is part of a family of derivates from vitamin A called retinoids, commonly found in anti-aging creams but also recommended in melasma management to improve cellular turnover and reduce the appearance of dark spots.

Retinol is a medium-strength retinoid. Prescription formulas normally contain retinoic acid (the strongest of these retinoids), while retinol is gentler and can be found in medical-grade skincare lines.

Retinol works at both the surface and middle layers of the skin.

• On the skin’s outermost layer, retinol exfoliates to remove dead skin cells, improve tone and texture and lighten dark spots.
• On the skin’s middle layer, retinol is clinically proven to boost collagen and elastin production, which helps improve firmness, tone, and texture of the skin.

These treatments don’t guarantee that melasma won’t come back, and some cases of melasma can’t be completely lightened. You might have to return for follow-up visits and stick to certain skin treatment practices to reduce the risk of the melasma returning. These include minimizing your sun exposure and using a good broad-spectrum SPF to protect your skin from the sunlight.

Please book in for a consultation where we will carefully assess your skin and advise you on the best treatment to manage your melasma.