Acne Vulgaris

Acne vulgaris (or simply acne) is a long-term skin condition that occurs when dead skin cells, bacteria, and oil from the skin (sebum) clog hair follicles, causing blemishes on the skin. These include pimples, blackheads, whiteheads, and cysts that might lead to scarring.

It typically affects skin with a relatively high number of oil glands, including the face, upper part of the chest, and back. The resulting appearance can lead to anxiety, reduced self-esteem, and in extreme cases, depression.

Acne vulgaris is estimated to affect about 50 million people in the U.S. About 85% of teenagers are affected by acne, as one of its main causes is hormones, especially around puberty. But acne can occur in any age group, with many cases persisting into adulthood.

Acne Vulgaris Symptoms

Most acne occurs on the face, chest, back, and shoulders. Symptoms can be mild, moderate, or severe, depending on the number and types of blemishes (whiteheads and blackheads) and pimples.

Blemishes and Pimples

Whiteheads are small flesh-coloured or white blemishes, while blackheads have a dark centre. Pimples are round, inflamed whiteheads on the skin.

Nodules and Cysts

Severe acne may include widespread blemishes with nodules or cysts, which are larger and more solid than pimples. Nodules and cysts tend to be more painful than pimples and they can lead to scars and pigmentation.

Scars

Acne scars are caused by dermal inflammation followed by an abnormal healing response that leads to excess collagen deposition or loss at the site of the acne lesion. Scarring is most likely to take place with severe acne but may occur with any form of acne vulgaris.

Pigmentation

After an inflamed acne lesion resolves, it is common for the skin to darken in that area, which is known as post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). The inflammation stimulates specialized pigment-producing skin cells to produce more melanin pigment, which leads to the skin’s darkened appearance. Untreated PIH can last for months, years, or even be permanent if deeper layers of skin are affected.

Causes of Acne Vulgaris

Acne appears to be strongly inherited, with genetics being the primary cause of it. Other risk factors for the development of acne have not been clearly identified, but possible secondary contributors include a combination of hormones, bacteria, diet, and stress.

Hormones appear to be mainly responsible for acne vulgaris during puberty, when a hormone called androgen increases and the sebaceous glands produce more sebum that can clog the follicles, hence causing acne.

As you enter early adulthood, androgens may decrease enough that acne will start to disappear. But for about 40% of women, acne may continue into their 40s because of hormonal changes and other causes, including:

• Pregnancy and/or menstrual cycle
• Some medications
• Certain cosmetics and lotions
• High humidity and sweating
• Polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS)

Treatments for Acne Vulgaris

Acne vulgaris can be a stressful problem to have, but the good news is that it is treatable. It may take several weeks or even months of treatment to see improvements, but at Facial Sculpting we will work with you to find a treatment that is successful for you.

It is important that you first come in for a consultation with Dr Nina, so that she can assess your case and suggest one treatment, or a combination of treatments, depending on the severity of your acne and/or acne scars.

Using a bespoke prescribed plan of medical-grade skincare products (subject to consultation only), Dr Nina might prescribe a range of products containing retinol, salicylic acid and AHAs, potentially combined with chemical peels.

Retinol

Retinol is part of a family of derivates from vitamin A called retinoids, commonly found in anti-aging creams but also recommended in acne management to improve cellular turnover and reduce blocked and congested pores.

Retinol is a medium-strength retinoid. Prescription formulas normally contain retinoic acid (the strongest of these retinoids), while retinol is gentler and can be found in medical-grade skincare lines.

Retinol works at both the surface and middle layers of the skin.

• On the skin’s outermost layer, retinol exfoliates to remove dirt, dead skin cells and oil from pores (hence preventing the formation of pimples), smooth scars, and improve tone and texture.
• On the skin’s middle layer, retinol is clinically proven to boost collagen and elastin production, which helps improve firmness, tone, and texture of the skin.

Salicylic Acid and AHAs

Salicylic acid is an extremely effective Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) that penetrates deeper in the skin than AHAs to remove build-up, banish blemishes and unclog pores.

It can be used in combination with glycolic and lactic acid, the most common types of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), which are used to exfoliate the outer surface of the skin to target roughness and uneven texture.

Please book in for a consultation where we will carefully assess your skin and advise you on the best anti acne treatment based on your skin type and condition.